The Most Incredible on the Edge of Glory

Ecuador! What an incredible country and it is definitely in my top five.   I am sad to leave but of course, just le my whole time here, my last days were incredible.

My mate Callum - we met in Arequipa - was passing through Quito for a coiple days so he booked into the hostel.  It is always nice meeting up with someone you have met along the way, a familiar face is always heart warming.
We hit up the Otovalo Market - o e of the largest open air markets in South America.  I was looking forward to it as its a big tourist spot and after all my time in Ecuador I still hadnt made it there.

I pictured it being like a flea market...you know, in a big open area like a fairground or something; instead, it was all through the streets of the town.  The streets were closed off and people popped up their kiosks, which filled the streets with colourful alpaca sweaters, bags, generic bracelets, hammocks - which I bought one and bartered for...in Spanish.  It was a lot of things that you can see in any market but it was still an experience, and....its a market, everyone loves a market!  We wandered the streets looking for everyhing but nothing, not wanting to leave empty handed. Finally amongst thr colours and generisism,we found this kiosk with gorgeous jewellery,  hand carved out of bone, coconut and different (currency) coins.  We spent an hour at this place, trying to decide what we wanted.  The owner was nice and we ended up be-friending him...infact, we felt quite protective of him.  A couple came up to the kiosk...she looked...the man started asking prices and wojld then say "muy caro" - to expensive- he continued to say it was plastic and could by it anywhere in Quito - everything of course being said in Spanish.  When Callum asked "De donde eres?" He ignored him. I said a few unkind words in English and we shooed him away.  We bought a few things after that ....if it was a scam to get us to buy it worked...but we know it wasnt, we were going to buy anyways

There were new volunteers - becauase Ale and Vane transferred to Cotopaxi - and they were awesome.  In just one week we became a little family.  We ate our meals together, hung out, drank together...the usual.  Sebastian and I would go oit for walks everyday and practice our Spanish which was pretty cool; we went to the park or the big statue and spoke as much as we could in Spanish.  I took 10 hours of Spanish my last week, which really helped me, now I just have to practice what she taught me.

My last day of classes my teacher gave me a box of chocolates.  Leticia - the one I had been tutoring gave me a pair of earings.  Carlos - one of the locals I worked with - wrote me a letter.  Everyone was making me cry.  Plus we had the most amazing group of people staying there that we all became really close with which made it harder but made my last night that much better.

Carlos and i dressed up for our wedding...fake wedding...dont worry.  He was upset I had to leave and that my visa was expiring and said he would marry me to keep me in the country so we planned a fake wedding which was only pictures and everyone getting drunk and heading to the club where we had a fringo corner on the dance floor.

My 10:30am leaving time turned out to be a little later as I was not up to par the next morning...I can probably use the word HUNGOVER to explain my situtation but there is no need to be specific, I prefer to say I had the vodka bug.

I still had to finish packing and everyone was coming to say goodbye, my managers, the cooks, guests even staff that had the day off...it was making it difficult and I was trying not to get emotional.  Living and working at a hostel is never easy to say goodbye to, I had spent three months at Wild Rover and this was almost two months and I didnt want to get attached, but Im a softy so of course there were tears before Jono and Bradey got me into the cab so we could head to Baños.

Back, to Baños.   I was pretty stoked, I love Baños so was looking forward to a quick visit before heading back to Perú.  The boysmade the bus ride interesting.  They had bought walkie talkies so Bradey sat a few seats up and when we needed to talk to eachother we would use them....and of course we had cool code names ...Maverick to Batman, this is Maverick calling Batman.  I was Goose.

When we checked into the hostel and got into our room, Jono decided that the only bottom bunk available was, his leaving the bunk above him or the top one by the door left for Bradey and I to fight for.  Rock, paper scissors is always a good way to help with decisions; I won which got me the bunk above Jono and away from the door.  Jono sat and gushed about is comfortable bed and kept saying I was closer to the ceiling making me closer to the spiders...which of course made me paranoid and everytime I felt something I jumped.  Between spider thoughts, our loud roommates and Jono's farting I didnt get much sleep. However, waking up to Jono having a spider in his "lush" bottom bunk made it all worth it...oh Kharma.

The night we got there we wanted to take it easy so we decided to go to the hot springs just under the waterfall...and relax.

Our jaws dropped when we walked in...it was nothing of what we were expecting.  It looked more like a communal bath then relaxing hot springs.  The baths were overflowing with people, the baths were manmade and the water was a murky brown.  We just stood and stared for a bit..."I paid three bucks I want my moneys worth," said Bradey.  We put on the swimming caps and headed to the roof to hopefully less crowded pools.   No such luck.  It was like taking a bath with strangers, the water made me itchy, I felt like I was in the Ganges River.

We just huddled in the middle making sure to have enough space between us and everyone else. We giggled at the situation, its moments like this that we travel for, to experience something local...even if we cant see if one of the kids have pooped in the brown water.

The next day  was a random day, which of course always turn out the best.  I wanted an adventure, so we rented an open top jeep with two other guys from the hostel.  We got directions to the jungle, hopped in the jeep and were off.

We drove out of town and followed the map to the bridge where we were suppossed to turn left and drive up to the jungle.  "Is this the right road, it seems awfully sketchy."  The road was windy, bumpy and almost too narrow for our jeep.  "Oh my god Jono please drive slowly, I don´t want to fall off the edge!"  My vertigo was kicking in and getting worse by the seconds.  "Ahh don´t worry, it´s fine...besides you wanted an adventure, you are living on the edge." Then he continues with "I¨m on the edge, of glory."  "Thank you Lady Gaga.  However, I don´t see any glory in this edge."  The boys checked the map again.  "It´s the right road.  Keep driving."  I was getting hit in the face with branches as I kept yelling at Jono to keep right.  "Its not Australia, you have to stay to the right." "Just keep reminding me and we will be fine."  "Gee that´s comforting."  The boys kept looking out into the scenery on our left which was a huge drop into I dont know what as I was staring at the stone wall on my right.  "Wow!  We are so high right now!"  Trust me, I didn´t need them to tell me, my vertigo was a constant reminder.

We came to a twist and a little decline.  We hopped out of the jeep and check it out.  There was a huge rock in the middle of the so-called road, which looked like it had fallen from the cliff above us.  "Now what?"  " We will turn around."  I looked at all four of them then at the jeep and the road that was barely wide enough to fit it.  "Are you kidding me?"  "Well there is no way we can get around that rock so we have to go back the way we came, we don´t have a choice." OH walking seems like a viable option right now I thought.

We had stopped in a part of the road that was a bit wider; a seven point turn and we were on our way back down the small road - which we found out later was the right road but was meant for bikes - and me in the back this time in between two of the guys, feeling a little more safe then in the front.

We drove around for hours through little towns, up more hills looking out at the incredible landscapes of jungle ridden hills with waterfalls.   We actually wanted to get to a waterfall and go swimming but we couldn´t seem to find one.   We even drove down a small road that we thought had a waterfall but it ended up being someones garden.

Driving around aimlessly wasn´t a bad thing, we ended up in some incredible spots which were great photo opportunities, though one of my photos was ruined as the guys thought it was funny to leave me in the middle of the road and drive away.  I took my camera away from my face and very slowly started walking the way they drove off, I rounded the corner, I hear their laughter.  They started driving backwards to where I was "Emmie, that was awesome!" "Yes, Im sure it was" Assholes!

Our aimless driving took us through this amazing jungle town.  The scenery, the gardens, the weather...honestly it was incrdible.  By this point I was used to the high windy roads and was sitting up on the back by the wheel with Bradey and Jono - sorry mum - all the while listening to Bailando,  Jono´s choice...my god we are such Gringo´s.  It was amazing - not the song - but just everything, the place the jeep, the wind blowing through our hair, the scenery and of course the people I was with...once again a random day turned out to be an incredible day.  

On our way back about 10 minutes from town Jono yells "the waterfall!!! Right there, turn around, go back!"  It was the waterfall all right...the waterfall we were at the night before with the hot springs!  "Well, at least it´s a waterfall!"

About two minutes from the rental place Bradey says "is this the right way, isn´t this street one way?"  "no its fine," we all agreed.  A woman in a street vendor started yelling "disculpe, disculpe es solo una via. Una via!"  Shit!  It´s only one way.  Five gringos in an open air jeep, driving the wrong way down a one way street with Bailando playing (again).  It looked even worse when we reversed and drove backwards now going the right way.

I parted ways with Jono and Bradey the next day.  Two other guys I met at the hostel in Quito were meeting up with me to head down to Mancora...yup it´s back to Peru.

I´m gutted to leave Ecuador.  I have had two of the most amazing months of all of my travels as well as met some of the most incredible people.   There are no words to describe the times, the adventures, the people and all the memories I now have...but maybe this will help.   Team meetings, canyoning, Bungalow,  Emmie I have Gatorade, Chanchito, Gordita, Tengo hambre, random days to the equator,  Sebastian taking me on afternoon runs,  Kiki Kiki Kiki, cama tiempo,  my freakout on the teleferiko,  getting robbed for a second time, mote,  locking Sebastian out of the room,  Cotopaxi, chasing llamas with Milo,  Mash potato,  fake weddings,  Chanchito´s horrible choice in music,  Quilotoa,  being on the 5 oclock news,  muggers corner,  Y.O.M.O - you only get mugged once, palabra, palabra ariba, Lesina´s locker of goodies, meeting up with my Mancora crew, Chanchito losing his stomach on the table at Bungalow,  Halloween - no words needed here, a rainy two days in Montanita but I guess the bakery made up for it, inside out, after hours in the staff room and of course all of you.  The Secret Garden is by far the most interesting hostel I have worked at.  It is chill and not party but has been the best place to meet people, and some of the greatest people at that.  I was suppossed to stay for two weeks and stayed two months which has left me with some of the greatest friends and the most incredible Ecuadorian family, a family that I was never expecting.  I´m sorry to leave but my time is up and I must float on...dont forget me and my heart will always be with you guys.

To my Quito Crew....love you x

Now it´s back to Mancora...bad or good choice?

                                                                                             - My Beautiful Life -

Quilotoa - A World of Our Own

The Quilotoa Loop.  Wow! What an incredible day.

A group of us at the hostel had been hanging out for a couple of days...all solo travelers and all pretty cool.  We kind of banded together for a few days, drinking, hanging out and doing day trips.  I got a few of them to sign up for the Quilotoa Loop - whichI had been wanting to do for awhile - and 10 people ended up signing up for the trip which meant I got to go for free! One of the perks of being a volunteer at the hostel.

We were up at the crack of dawn - some of them hungover - hopped on our bus and began the three hoir journey to Quilotoa.

We didnt drive three hours straight which was awesome; we stopped for a yummy breakfast to fill up our bellies, then we headed to a traditional home.

The people of these traditional homes live old fashioned, no electricity, they farm and live off the land all at an altitude off 3900 meters.  They speak Quechua - the old language - some speak only this language not even Spanish.  The children walk about 2 hours to school.  Its a tough life but they are happy.  Sometimes I think us Westerners have it all wrong, we have so much but yet it never seems to be enough. We are so spoiled in almost every aspect, we have technology that we feel we need and cant survive without, overflowing bank accounts which may not seem overflowing to us or have what we want as a sufficient amount of money but its more then these people will see in a life time.  We have cars, a house with bathrooms and a few

bedrooms, celebrities living in mansions for less then five people. We spend copious amounts of money on materialistic things which in ways make us feel more significant or accepted. Yet we never seem satisfied. Its never enough.  We are so greedy and take it all for granted.  Then there are these incredi le people who possesion wise, dont have much but their crops, their small handbuilt hut with no electeicity to house their family of 10 and of course their family.  They work in the fields all day with none of the modern facilities we consider necessities - toilets, showers etc. - yet they are the happiest people in the world.  We definitely went wrong somewhere.

We had a wonderful visit.  They aloud us into their home which was one room, no electricity, one bed - the chikdren sleep on the floor - and heaps of cuy (guinea pigs).  They are not pets, cuy is a traditional dish here...yes they eat them...and artwork from the children hung on the walls.  The simple life...makes me smile.

We stopped for pictures along the waywhich was great.  It was so nice to get awesome scenery shots instead of just driving by them.

The whole day was based on our time.  We took our time taki g photos and reallywith everything.  When we arrived in Quilota, the group waites as I of course had to go in the shop and by myself an alpaca sweater.  Its super warm and awesome...I figured if I wasnt payi g for the trip then i could bymyself a cozy sweater.  The group waited 20 minutes for me, I felt bad but was happy about my sweater.

Tanja and I were in conversation walking down the steps to the begining of the crater.  We werent really paying attention and then just stopped mid-sentence.  My breathe caught in my throat. "I feel like crying" Tanja said.  "Me too." I replied.  It was breathtaking.  A huge crater with an incredible lake.  I felt like Leo Dicaprio in The Beach... the magnificent beauty of a world of our own completely shut off from everything else...it was incredible.

We took our time going down.  Most of the group was way ahead of us but Tanja, Paul, Gerwin and I took our time taking pictures, climbing rocks for good photo spots, laughing and joki g around and walking down cautiously.  It was pretty steep and super slippery, Tanja and slipped and slidded down, it basically looked like really awesome dance moves.  "Vamos, vamos!" The guide yelled up to us at one point.  "We will meet you down there!" Paul yelled down.  Which we did awhile later, like I said, our own time.

We rented kayaks and kayaked in circles in the lagoon. It was so quiet, so peaceful...we cojld actually here the low tones of the guys voices who were at least 100 feet away.  We werent overly keen on going too far out...the boys did, at one point we couldnt even see them anymore. I hope they didnt tip. Fish cant live in these waters so I definitely dont want to be swimming in it. They eventually became small specks and then bigger, and then back to life size again.  We were wet when we got back to shore...there was water in the kayak so our butts were drenched...yuck...not comfortable...but well worth it.

None of us wanted to do the hike back up so we hired horses.  Yup more horseback for me.  My horse however was the leader this time.  Im not gonna lie, I was freaked.  Going up  a steep slippery incline, on a horse who likes to walk extrmely close to the unguarded edges is not the type of adrenaline Im keen on.
I did relax a little, and it was nice not to be 10 mnutes behind everyone...finally!

We laughed most of the way up.  I guess the altitude affects horses as well because the amount of farts that wers escapi g their behinds was enough to fly me back to Arequipa.  "Mine is farting a symphony back here." Paul said.  Poor horses...I felt bad that Enrique - my horse -had to carry my weight all the way up.  He got quite tired and had to stop for breaths.  I decided to sing to him .... Bailando by Enrique Iglasias...how perfect....sing to Enrique a song by Enrique...in Spanish of course.  Quiero estar contigo, viver contigo, bailar contigo, tener contigo una noche loca....Bailando...I thought it was great though not sure how Enrique felt about it.

We saw a tv crew on the way up..."oh look guys, we are going to be famous!" I wasnt lying either, they ended up interviewing me for the next nights 8 oclock news.  Man, I must've looked like the biggest gringo, alpaca sweater, beeds in my hair, a peruvian fanny pack, a multi-coloured peruvian scrunchy tying up my hair, and a knitted bag over my shoulder. Classic me. (Go to about 3:15 minutes)





We ate lunch, soup and then chicken with rice and jot oranje juice which is amazing by the way.  "I just have to run to the little shop." "Again" said our guide "what do you need this time?"  He sent me with his friend to his shop. I wanted patxhes and they didnt have any but  I felt bad so i bought a 10 cent bracelet for $1...oh well.

We stopped at a fruit market on the way back...i bought some avocado and took pictures of the chaos of what a local fruit market is like. " That lady just asked me to pay her because I took a picture of the food she is cooking" Paul said. "Did you pay her?" "No!" It was cow intestine, the food smelled delicious until we were told what it was.

We slept most of the way back...everyone was pooped, and I had to work when I got back, which resulted in drinks and goi f to the bar till 4 am lol.

Quilotoa was amazing.  These random days with new random friends are turning out to be the best days.  Hopefully this week will be the same as it is my last week here.

                                                         
                                                                                                                           - My Beautiful Life-

A "Special" Horse, Altitude and Skeletons in the Streets.

My week at Cotopaxi was awesome... I have no complaints... well except that I was exhausted by the time I got back and the altitude really affected me.  I knew there were wide affects but it was like my Misti Attempt excwpt I wasnt attempting anything.  I had a bad head from the altitude and the pressure from the overcast sky so I fought a migraine for my first day and a half. My head felt like a bowling ball making me want to roll it down an alley into a full set of 10 pins hoping to relieve some of the pain...even hitting it against a wall seemed like an attractive option, it made it so hard for me to function and help with guests so I just stuck to the basics; setting up for meals, cleani g up after meals, serving snacks, taking afternoon naps with Mash - one of the hostel Daschunds- and relaxing in the hot tub...like I said, the basics.

By the third day I was feeling heaps better, my head was still a bit wonky but I didnt feel like going bowling with it anymore.  This meant I could start enjoying the day trips Cotopaxi had to offer.

Horseback riding!!!

You all know how clumsy I am an that I have two left feet so me riding  on a four legged creature three times the size of me isnt that elegant....and I had the smallest one.

Her name was Freaka...and a freak she was.  She was like your average woman, idnt like taking commands and did things her own way.  She zigzagged up the cobblestone streets cuttin everyone off, she didnt want to trott, infact she didnt want to do anything at all.  Great, I have Forest Gumps horse.  Of course I have the "special horse"...the horse thatt the otherhorses dont want to play with.  Which seemed to be the case as the guys were out of eyesight now.   "Vamos Freaka, vamos."  Nada.  I have a har enouh time keeping up during treks,  I thought being on a horse would keep me up with the crowd...if ony I was so lucky.   Freaka decided she wasnt going any further and turned around.  "No Freaka...the othr way..vamos."   She wasnt listening and I was starting to get a little nervous.  Thankfully, the gide came to my rescue (and not for the last time that day) offering me his horse.  Bad mistake!  

This horse was crazy.  It was throwing its head from side to side, up and down and turnn  around in circles.  "Dispacio, dispacio"  said the guide.  "Im not doing anything."  Then, I hear a loud cracking sound and the horse takes off at full speed with me clutching on for dear life.   I was screaming,   was terrified, I hadnt been fitted for this saddle or stirrups which meant with every galloping step I slid from side to side while one of my feet flew out to the side.

I switched back to Freaka...this time I had more confidence and faith in her.  Again I heard a loud snaappoing sound and she was off lke a bat out of hell.  "Diiiiispaaaaaciiiiiiooooooo!"   I yelled begging her to slow down which she did when we fnally caught up to the guys.   She actually kept up quite well, she trotted along happily and when she herd the boys speed up she would to.  I constantly soke to her in Spanish and petted   her which really helped our relationship or at least it did until the boys got further ahead again.  She had an attitude of "well, if they are going to go ahead of me lke this then i am going to take my sweetass time."   Ughh what a girl.     Though things changed  when we got to the grass.

Wind blowing through my hair, miles of fielded landscape, a perfect view of Cotopaxi, the sun shining, calls of "yeeha a" and "woohoo" from the boys ringing through the air as we galloped at full speed through the hills.  It was absolutely amazing, and what a feeling of freedom you get riding a  horse....abolutely exhilerating.   We stoped for a snack and a rest. I was a bit stiff, my knees were slightly turned in makin me a little bowlegged and akward to walk but I made it to the view point   and enjoyed the endless miles of field that met with a perfect backdrop of Cotopaxi.

The boys and I raced through the field on our way back, Freaka and me of course coming in last...but I guess she was determined to gget a head because when we caught up with  the boys they were aleady stopped but she just kept on going....straight for one of tthe guys and their horse.  I thought she was going to switch directions ...."Emmie!!!! Pull on the reigns.   Pull!!!   I did.  She knocked heads with the other horse and then switched directions.   I was lucky it  wasnt worse, colliding with a horse 2 tiimes the size of my horse was not  something I wanted to experience.

The ride back was alright....once we were on the cobblestone she slowed down again resulting in the guys getting extremely far ahead.   She was going so slow that snails were moving faster.   I tried to get her to move faster but she would stop completely and then shake her head.  "Fine!"  Ughh.  She decided she didnt want to walk on the cobblestone and went ffor the grassy bits on the side....THROUGH TREES!  That were at my height...seriously!!!   I wated to get of and wlk her but she seemed agitated.   I was happy to get back to the hostel and relax....I was  sore and bowlegged but of course feeling great from a fantastic morning.

"Emmie I have 11 people wanting to go t the waterfall can you help me guide it please?"

It wasnt too dificult I was just a little tired.   I led it most of the way..well actually Milo (the hostel dalmation) did.  He runs off ahead an then he sits and waits for everyone, making sure they are all there and accounted for. I didnt do the last  bit  - the part wth the drop into the waterfall - Diego did it, I waited at the bottom with Milo who just hung out with me till everyone headed back down.  What a great dog.

On the way back, in the field next to the hostel driveway were a bunch of llamas.  They all stopped and stared at us.  I was trying to get clos enough t take a photo but they kept walkin away.  I saw Milo out of the corner of m eye "come on Milo!" I yelled and we both took off through the field chasing the llamas. AMAZING!!!  I sleept like a baby that night.

The next morning I was helping guide the Pasachoa volcano tour.   It started off good...nothing special.  Going up throuh the woods was a little difiicult with the altitude but then it leveled out for an hourrr which helped me adjust. One person turned back,  I should have as well going forward was dangerous and stupid and Im lucky I didnt end up worse off then what happened, but I was so determined to make it to the summit because Misti kicked my ass and didnt want that to happen again, but halfway through the hike the altitude really started hitting me.  I looked ahead at the dogs;  Milo, a mile ahead of us with his head sticking out of the grass waiting for us and Mash and Daisy (the daschunds) hoping through the grass like bunnies. Their legs are the length of my foot and there they are hoping around like rabbits...ughhh.  

Everything after that is a bit hazy. I know what happened but the

order of the way things happened is foggy as is the way I remember the landscape...hazy, dark and ominous.

My breathing was fine, it was my head that was the problem.  I was light headedand dizzy and my legs felt like they were 100 pounds.  "You look a little grey are you alright?" "I feel a little grey.  I just need to lie down."  Iremember everyone over me aski g me if I was ok "Im fine, go on ahead, the tour tomorrow will find me."  Someone gave me a sugar candy and o e of the guys linked arms with me to make the walking easier. "I feel like an old lady." "Its ok, I am a gentleman, I help all the ladies up the hill."  From this point on I remember struggling really hard, ,y energy becomi g less and less.  I fought my way to the top only to discover we had to go down and back up.  "I cant do this." I wanted to cry, but we had come to a point where we werent able to turn around. "Yes you can Emmie come on, small steps."  I tried but I was feeling nauceous.  I sat down.  Then I see the cutest face in the world, mash had come back to see if I was ok, but after another minute I had to sit back down.  I was losing my footing and stubbling because I was so light headed and I do t think I was doing anything to help myself, I was really out of it.  Simon took my hand and guided me up with his strength and Rika put her hand on my back to help me from falling and give me some momentum.  "Emmie, you can can sit on my bag and I can pull you up, I have the strength."  I looked at how bumpy it was and new in my condition I wouldnt ha e the strength to hold on. "Its ok Simon Im good to walk." "Ok, but our next resting spot is there." He pointed 10 feet away.  We walked and rested walked and rested.  I knew it was bad when all I wanted to do was sleep...I literally couldnt go any further, but they pushed and pulled me to the top.  Looking back it seems as though they dragged me but I know thats not the case. I got a big clap from everyone else waitig at the summit.  I was my own hero that day and gifted myself with a glass of wine when I got back.  Tje walk back was easier, except coming down I felt better except my vertigo hit then and I slipt in the mud a couple of times do to my lack of balance.  I didnt want anyone to know about my vertigo, I figured my weakness to the altitude was enough.

"Simon, I will be abig part of your journal today." "Haha ya, our Canadian tour guide...for sure."  When we volunteer at Cotopaxi we have to do the waterfall hike and Pasachoa. It was my first time doing Pasachoa and my last...Diego has no problems doing it and he was with us.  Unfortunately altitude will hinder me from doing things.  It was a horrible feeling, it was almost like having no control over my body but almost not caring.  There are a few more I want to maybe trybut I will have to prepare and if I cant do it turn around as altitude sickness can be extremely dangerous.

I didnt feel well that night.  I had a bad headache and could barely eat dinner. I felt fantastic the next day but then my breathing got bad that night to the point I almost couldnt breathbut it was my day to head back to Quito.  I almost cried saying goodbye to my little Mash (Potato) I wanted to take him with me.  i loved having pets around and being a cat person I didnt realize how fun dogs were...Mum I want a dog!

I was back in time for Halloween, which also was the same time as Day of the Dead. The  crazy sugar skull makeup and parties in the city was insane and the first night I had partied in months. You know it was a good night when it is a full hostel and only 10 guests make it for breakfast...seriously, I was hurting.  Day of the Dead is huge here, even the next day walking through the market in the park there were people walking around with their faces painted and some sort of zombie movie being filmed.

The adventures here are not ending, the next few days are filled with treks, kayaking, markets and well...you will have to wait.


                                                                                   -My Beautiful Life-

A hero on the summit

Reunions, The Middle of the Earth Again and an Apple

Well, my sadness after everyone left didnt last long...the past week has been awesome. 

It started off  with my girl Rhea (one of the bartenders from Loki) coming to Quito - a week after Ben left. I was so stoked to see her...a week of being solo was enough for me, especially since I am in limbo right now.

Our week started off great.  We one the pub quiz at the hostel, first prize being a free night at our sister hostel in Cotopaxi.  I was super stoked.  I had been there the week before just after Ben left.  It is amazing there! It is out in the county completely isolated.  There is no wifi, electricity only in certain areas of the property so candle light is the way to go, a hot tub, llamaw, a horse, three dogs, a cat, waterfall hikes, bike rides, horseback riding, volcano treks, endless miles of green country side with a spectacular back drop of the active volcanoes. There are 9 of them, Cotopaxi being the tallest (active volcano in the world).  

Sarah (another bartender from Mancora) was meeting us in Qujto the next morning so when she arrived she hopped on the shuttle and came with us to Cotopaxi.

It was so nice...and a breath of fresh air after spending so much time in a city.  We - the pub quizwinners there were 6 of us, 7 including Sarah - went on the (free) waterfall hike, but the girls were tired so they stayed  behind.

Alejandro - one of the volunteers from Quito was transfered there for a week to help out - led the hike.  It was only about 45 minutes to get there, and not really difficult but we did have to scale a low wall at one point which wasnt my favourite part. It may have been low; but low or high its all the same to my disagreement with heights...of course I made it (with help).  Then just before the water fall there was a 7 meter drop into xthe lower waterfall.  This wasnt in the description I thought...but again (with help) I made it.  However, I was covered in mud - the only one covered in mud - because I have to left feet and use all fours to get up and down quite a bit....how I was a trained dancer for all those years is beyond me.

The rest of the time we relaxed, listened to music, read, snuggled with the dogs, drank wine, enjoyed the hot tub and took advantage of the hammocks which have an amazing view.

Just like the previous time,  I didnt want to leave...but, my weekend was just as good.

Me and Quique (one of the guys staying at the hostel), went to the equator.  I know I have already been, but I lost all my photos when my camera got stolen and I wanted pictures.  We decided to go to the other (first/fake) equator first and then walk over to the other one (the one I had been to).

Instead of a hiring a taxi we took the bus...heaps cheaper...only a total of $0.90 there and back.  It was an hour and a half, but made for the adventure...especially when the bus decided to take off when I had one foot on the platform and the other hanging out of the door...even after I yelled WAIT it didnt stop...got to love the safety in South America.

We had an absolute blast at the (fake) equator.  It is so different then the apparantly real one -  it is said that is not on the real equator.  The place is like a theme park, restaurants, shops, dancers, theatres and of course the huge monument that marks the equator line.

For two hours we just took pictures, we sat down on the ground in front of the monument and just did handstands, cartwheels, took photos for others in between...it was a blast. At one point, Quique squatted to make a funny pose when a loud popping sound happened; it almost sounded like an air tight bottle of pop had just been opened.  He looked at me with dread in his eyes "shit! That was the sound of my pants and Im not wearing any underwear, they are in the laundry.." - which we had dropped ofd before leaving.   I laughed so hard...it was one of the highlights of my day  and for once it wasnt one of my misfortunes. I told him it was good to let his balls breathe once in awhile anyways.

   We walked to the other one -the one I had already been too - so I could take a picture but they wanted to charge me $4 just to take a picture...WITH MY OWN CAMERA!  I was only two feet away from the sign and they still wouldnt let me snap a picture without receiving their $4...so we left.  I was a little annoyed but I had some great photos from the memorial so wasnt to fussed.

It rained on the bus ride back and it didnt help that we got dropped off at the other end of the city...me in shorts...and had about an hour walk ahead of us.  We were lucky to have a young Equadorian guy lead the way for us...he was really sweet and super stoked when he found out I was from Canada, "Whistler?"  was all he asked me.   After walking about 10 minutes, Quique and I decided to get a cab as I was freezing - it had been hot when we left so I was in shorts - but it wasnt that easy to get one.  A lot of times they just wave their finger at you and drive past...annoying as...so we just kept walking the streets, streets that werent so ... nice?  "Ummm, all the men are staring at me, even the old ones," I said.  "Just keep walking, we will go right where that car turned."   What a difference a street makes,  we were instantly in a better area and got a taxi back with a driver who didnt believe we were just friends, that we must be lovers "not now, but possibly later tonight," was Quiques reply (in Spanish).  It was honestly such a great day, probably one of the most fun times I have had in awhile,  I think because it was so random, so unplanned so their were no expectations so really nothing could go wrong.

Ben showed up for the weekend.  I was so happy to see him, I had really missed him and was quick to push him into a corner and talk his ear off for half an hour.  He loved it.  I was angry at him however as I had already said goodbye to him and didnt want to do it again.  "Dont cry Emmie" he said as he gave me a hug.  "I dont want to waste my tears on you anyways." I said...and no I didnt cry when he walked away.

The girls left the next daylater, I was sad.  I didnt want to say goodbye to them again...it was so great having them in Qutio. Plus I was a little jealous that they were going together,  I wanted to go with them, but my gust is not going that way so we did the I love yous, hugs and kisses and they were gone.  Though,  my mate Grant, from back home was in Quito for the night.  I hadnt seen him in about a year and a half so having him there the day they left really helped and it was totally rad having a familiar face from back home.

By mid week two of my boys from Mancora were passing through (the Batcherlors -  that is their last name) for a night so I got to catch up with them.  It was pub quiz night, though this time I wasnt the winning team.  I really didnt care, it was just so nice catching up with them.

They were the last of my Mancora crew to head off.  Its a litte sad actually, there was such a big crew of us that it was great running into everyone a long the way...now their gusts have taken them to Colombia and I am still in Quito.  I do really like Quito,  I like the hostel and the friends I have made, plus I am tutoring English which I enjoy.  I am tutoring one of the chefs and her son.  They live next door to the hostel so the location is perfect and they have two little kittens, they can fit into the palm of my hand.   My favourite is Jack, he is all black and he climbs up my leg and curls up in my lap while I am tutoring.  Oh...and excitement...when I arrived at my last session she gave me an apple,  my first teachers apple!!  I dont know if she knew the significance behind it or was just giving me a snack but I didnt care...I got a teachers apple!!!

Im hoping to get a few more students in the next few weeks so I can make some money and move on to the next place.  For now,  I am here, quite content and enjoying my time and I am on a transfer for the weekend at our Cotopaxi for 5 days....ahhh, country life.

                                                                                              - My Beautiful Life -

La Pluma de Sola

Goodbyes...I hate them.  It is one of the inevitabilities of travel.  It hangs around in the background while you and your feathers adventure, having the time of your life...watching, waiting ... and then swoops down and punctures a hole in your whirlwind of happiness. Its like a tragedy...the death is always foreshadowed...you know its going to happen you just dont know when, and then it makes an appearance, laughs at you and leaves just as quickly.  Sometimes it happens sooner than later or even later than sooner, but it still happens.  You think your prepared but it still leaves you saddened when it happens. Its one of the down falls of traveling, and one of the things I hate the most.

When I said goodbye  in Mancora I made myself stay non emotional...the preparation I gave myself mentally actually worked...I dont know how, but it did.  For once I was able to walk away without a tear - even though I miss everyone heaps - I knew my time there was over.  However this preparation doesnt seem to be working when seperating from people I travel with.

New clusters of feathers always blow in your direction when floating on the wind, always (of course) creating a wonderful havoc of adventure and discourse.  You laugh, you cry and share crazy stories and feelings that are the most important at that moment, and then with a swoosh of a breeze, directions change...again.

I tell myself, a few weeks ago you didnt know them, but the intensity of friendships in those few weeks is something that seems to be an emotion that I just cant manage to let go of with ease these days.  You would think with four years of experiencing this it would be a little less heart felt because you know from day one that when floating, gusts will always blow you in different directions. However, no matter what you plan and promise, goodbyes are a guarantee.  

With the guarantee of goodbyes and winds blowing you in different directions,  are the friendships and amazing adventures the whirlwinds bring with them...and for these, I am greatful; and they dont always end up with a crash landing into the previous nights leftovers or the murky waters of what was.  Sometimes you are left floating on a calm river, content with your memories and even the goodbyes. You float slowly looking at new surroundings coming across others floating through as well, waiting for the next gust to come and take you on your next adventure.

This is the first time in six months I have really been on my own and, even 

though content, I am a bit lonely.  Constantly floating with others (even in the murky waters I was still never alone) made it easy to forget that I am solo.  I forgot  the feeling  of being on my own and it feels kind of strange, almost unknown.  Unknown like the silence I had to allow myself to go back to, though not as scary or intimidating. Its calm.  I can think and focus, though lonliness can wrap around you at times.  I miss having someone to talk to, take pictures with or even just to hang out with.  

I am in Quito, floating nicely and quietly, volinteering at a hostel while I decide which gust is the right one for me.  The tranquility of solitude is refreshing and I am focussed but I miss my friends feel lonely at times.  The  lonliness accompanied with endless days of rain seems to bring heaps of hours to think and remember.  As sad as I am our gusts took us in different directions the memories make me smile and fill me with warmth.

Lesina, Ben and Matt, the past few weeks have gone by so fast...from Loki, to a relaxing two days in Montanita, an adventurous weekend in Banos, a Whirlwind in Quito all connected with never ending hours on the bus.  I had a blast and some of my best memories in South America.  Fake wedding and divorce papers, Lessie the Lizard, Matts never ending stories, Lesinas bottomless stomach and snacks in her locker, Ben having to do up our pants because we gsined too much weight, Inside Out, a non existant diet to look like the people on the posters, leaving emails for babes at the tour office, and team meetings.  You guys have given me so many memories..thank you for everything, your friendships, for always being there, for loving me for me, Ben for being my bus buddy and being there for me after Lesina left when I really needed a friend, Lesina for being besties with me, Matt for being you.  Also for getting me - or Ben making me - do one thing everyday that scares me...it was all worth it.

 I am saddened that our time together is over but unfortunately our winds have blown us in different directions as it does when you choose the life of a feather.  We may want to float on together but in this life you only get a short gust together...as the saying goes *we are here for a good time, not a long time.* 

Float safely on your journeys and let your gust take you where you are meant to blow.  Where am I going? Where ever my gust picks me up and takes me.  Esta pequeña pluma es lista.

                                                                  - My Beautiful Life -

                                                                    

                                                                                           

A Target at the Centre of the Earth

Not only have I been to the edge of the earth but I have been to the centre of the earth...the equator.   The equator  in Ecuador (hence the country's name)....pretty cool if i say so myself.

There are acually two equator destinations.  The original and the correct one.  What do I mean by original? Well, there are two destinations because originally this is where the equator was thought to be, and is marked by a large monument. However, with new technology - GPS - it was discovered that it was 800 meters  -I could be wrong with the number - off from where the equator actually was.  The monument of the original still stands and is still an attraction, but the new one with the museum is the one you want to go to.  

The museum is pretty cool and focuses on a tribe in the jungle - unfotunately I can't remember the name of the tribe. We got to see a real human shrunken head which was cool.  Back in the day when they defeated their enemies they cut of their heads shrunk them   - only a half our process - and then wore it around their neck.  They still shrink heads today but now they do it with family members in rememberence.   We also saw a grave which had been set up to mimic what was burried when the husband of a family died.  One thing being a large clay vase like thing where the body of his wife was put...alive!  If the man died first, his wife would be drugged and burried with him....pretty morbid.  However,  if she died first, he would re-marry...I love the equal rights.  

Petrified tarantulas were incased in the museum as well as a penis fish which are this long narrow fish that swim  up the penis and then open up there jaw and live off the blood and have to be surgically removed.   When going in the river the men put their penis up in a belt to avoid this painful situation.  It does happen to women as well though Im not sure what they do to avoid it.  

The guide showed us experiments on the equator line which were really interesing, one being with a sink.  On the equator water drains straight down, when the sink is moved to the Southern Hemisphere and then the Nothern Hemisphere the water will go either clockwise or counter clockwise depending on which hemisphere its in.   Walking along the equator is difficult as the pul from each hemisphere pulls you.   You can stand an egg straight up, though its a bt of a challenge and Ben was the only one that ended up being able to do it and he got a certificate.   

There is a stone clock that sits right on the equaator line that has two faces, one facing the Northern Hemisphere and one facing the Southern.  The face that is used to tell the (exact) time depends on the time of year.   The length of day and night never change and there are no seasons either...it always stays the same in the center of the earth.

 We learned about monsoons and hurricanes...they are the same, however their names tell you what hemisphere they come from.   Water and wind move in a different direction depending on their hemisphere - just like we were shown with the sink - therefore when we hear monsoon we know its in the Southern Hemisphere.   It was really interestng learning  all the stuff and not just about the country I'm in but about the planet...I felt a bit smarter when we left haha.  Plus we got our passorts stamped!  

When we got back Ben camee with me so I could buy a tablet and get back into electronic commnication. It took us two hours but we finally found a brand new table, plus an SD card and a cord so I could recharge my camera - as my cords were stolen wen I got robbed - or $210.   I was so excited!!!  I couldnt wait to be conected again a nd be able to write whenever I wanted.

We had a family dinner that night with a botttle of voldka as it was our last night together and then we headed to a bar.   We had a blast and ran into someother fellow travelers we have met along the way.  When the plce closed we just hung around out the front ...drunk...asnd chatted.

  This was where our night to a turn for the worst.   I put my hand in my purse and realized my camera was gone....robbed again!!!  I freaked, I had just had it.  I had given it to one of my friends to take a picture, he gave it back, I pu it in my purse -  which is a small over the shoulder one, as small as a clutch, and was closed - and never saw it again. I was so upset I started crrying.  The second time in four weeks...seriously!!! Plus...al my pictures from everthing we had just done includng the equator, and all the good group photos were on my camera.   Once again my photos gone   - which is why nothing has been posted as I have nothing to post.  Honestly...I am so sick of being a target.  Its like I have a stamp on me I AM A GRINGA PLEASE ROB ME.  I am so sick of it.  I hate not feeling safe...its getting annoying...but I guess that is all part of the adventure right?   After Lesina calmed me down, we decided to head back to the hostel to get Ben as he had taken off and then go to a house party we got invited to.  However Ben wasnt in his bed when we got back.  It was 3am where could he be. I checked the bathroom.  "Ben?"  I heard moaning coming from one of the stalls.  I called him again and again I heard moaning.  I started banging on the door "Ben, hun open the door please.  Come on, open up."  I heard the lock and the haandle turn and Ben fell out.  He had been sick everywhere and was competely out of it.  I  knew by the looks of him he wsnt drunk, he had been drugged, and it was pretty bad.  

After 3 hours of being in the bathroom with  blankets, water and fresh clothing we finally got him into bed.   It took him a few days to recover...he even skipped going to Colombia with Lesina and Matt and moved hostels with me as I am once again volunteerng.  He didnt want  be alone and I didnt want to leave him be alone.

I worked and he rested for a couple of days getting his strength and even came with me and another of our mates from the trail so I could by  camera.  This one has wifi connection and will  download automatically to my tablet ten drop box...I am not losing anymore photos.   The work and hostel are chill which is nice  and I really like the people I work with.  Plus I am of course practicing my Spanish...I even have a little pocket dictionary which helps so much. I take it everywhere, even when Ben and I  went to   the  Mercado de Otovalo...the biggest open air market in South America.    

The bus ride there was so uncomfortable though.  Whe we got on the bus they had sold our seats so we sat upfront behind the driver on a rock solid bench.   The view was good though, especiaally when we got to this huge trafic jam on the highway and all these people were selling stuff on the road.  They were selling everything from phone chargers, 20 manderines for $1, bottled water and even porn.   I took us over 3 hours to get to the market..longr than expected...which meant by the time we arrived I had to hop on another bus and head back to the hostel and work.   

  Life has been pretty  chill whch is nice though I have lost my tan.   was offered a teaching position in  Quito but the hours dont work with my hours at the hoste.  With money being really slim right now I cant afford to not have free accmodation, plus the pay is less than Peru but everything is more expensive so I unfortunately had to decline. So now,  I am just chilling and waiting to see where the wind takes me.

                                                                      - My Beautiful Life -

At the Edge of the Earth

Our last day in Banos we planned a 4 hour day trip.

We hired a cab for the day - only $32 - and headed off to the famous waterfall, Pailon del Diablo.  It was about a 20 minute drive out there,  driving up through windy roads - my vertigo getting a little aggitated.  A little waterfall was pouring down onto the road so the driver stopped to give his car a rinse.  

The waterfall was amazing, we spent two hours there.   It is a bit of a hike there, but the views are amazing.  

There are two sides to the waterfall.   The first side when walking down to the view point you can hear and feel the vibration of the waterfall, it literally felt like it was pulsing through my blood.  

To get to this side however, we had to cross a suspension bridge, two of them actually.  Perfect, heights, my favourite.  It can be difficult sometimes when people dont understand the effects of vertigo.   It took me almost five minutes to get a foot on the bridge.  Then then a minute to grab my balance and then enough courage to turn around and stand there while our picture was taken.   But of course, I dont let my fears stop me and eventually crossed both bridges.

There is only one viewing point from this side and you can see to the other side with the stairs swirling down into the rocks, people taking pictures and of course the waterfall itself.   Our driver
came with us which was awesome because he took all our photos for us, plus Lesina practiced her Spanish with him the whole time.  She is getting better then me, Im so jealous!

The boys wanted to head to the other side.  Lesina and I werent to keen as the hike back up was a little tough but when we were told it would take about an hour on the otherside we decided to go.  This time walking over the suspension bridge with ease, and quickly so I could be on it as short as possible.

It was so worth it!!!  There were more viewing points on this side and the views were beautiful.   The first one was a bit of a mission.  You pretty much had to crawl on all fours through a little cave which was a little bit claustrophobic.  When I got to the end - "Emmie your small you go first" - it didnt seem like we could go any further but we had to climb up stairs that were carved into the rock to get out into the open.   We were so close the water fall that we could reach out and touch it...so I did.  


We spent about 15 minutes taking pictures from every spot possible as we were on a bit of a tight time frame and still had to hike back up about a half hour.  My lungs and legs screamed at me but it was so worth it and really glad I push myself most times to do things.

Our next stop was at the edge of the earth.   As you can guess it has to do with heights.  Why not.  I had already abseiled, zip lined and walked across two suspension bridges.  Why not sit on a swing

that goes over a cliff?  Sure, its super safe.   I could see the branches moving as people swung back and forth creaking with every back and forth sway.   I got on without hesitation, pushed back, and let myself go.  It almost felt like I was flying.  I was scared but it felt awesome.  Up in there air at the edge of the earth with Tungurahua, the active volcano, as a back drop.   Who thought being so close to the edge could feel so good.  Do one thing everyday that scares you.  Think I might try and make this my new saying instead of my famous What the fuck did I get myself into, but we will see how that goes.

We had to race back to the hostel, grab our stuff and hop on the bus.  We made it with about 10 minutes to spare.   We were heading to Quito, the capital city of Ecuador.  I was a little sad to leave Banos.  So many people we had met in Mancora and Montanita had arrived, plus Banos is beautiful.  The rolling mountain landscape was something I didnt want to say goodbye too but a new destination was in place and only three hours away.

When we arrived at the hostel the kitchen was closed and nothing on the streets was open.   We hopped in a cab that said McDonalds was open but that was closed when we got there.  Thankfully, KFC has later hours and we were able to pack our bellies with it at 11pm and then head straight to bed.

Quito is beautiful.   Our hostel was located in Old Quito - we have switched hostels.   It has a European feel to it, almost like Prague but without the cobblestone street and gothic architecture.  Its beautiful, with colourful buildings and small European like streets with a back drop of Cotopaxi Mountain in the background.  

We went into Mariscal for lunch, the newer part of Ecuador and tourist area as every five minutes someone walks up to you and tries to sell you sunglasses - a key thing in the tourist areas.  

Mariscal is modern, clean, with pubs and bars, shops, music a good vibe and lots of sunshine.  I love it!!!  Walking around made me feel giddy.  I dont know why.  I guess just after everything the past few months I feel 100% happy again, and feeling that way makes me even more happy.  

After lunch, a build your own burger for under $7 -  it is American dollars here which is great but I spent so much time in Peru I am converting everything to soles which completely changes what cheap and expensive is - and a pitcher of beer, it was close to 4pm.  With not much time left of daylight we decided to go up the mountain by cable car to get a view of Quito.  This I definitely wasnt a fan of.  I have been in one before and my vertigo just goes through the roof.  "Guys Im not overly keen on doing this,  I have done this before and it is one thing that I dont like"  "Emmie,  what did you tell me yesterday.  What is something you have been saying for the last five days now." Ben said to me harshly  "Yes I know but honestly, I really dont like cable cars."  "Oh so you forgot what you told me already, have you?"  I started laughing "No I havent forgotten.  You guys really dont know what vertigo feels like."

I went,  I dont let my fears stop me,  I may hesitate, but I still do things that scare me.  What would be the point in exploring this beautiful world if I let my fears control my actions.  

I freaked.  I held on to Bens leg squeezing it the higher we got.  He sat there laughing at me.  Matt played some weird music which set the mood for the car falling off the wire and us plummeting to our death.  He changed it.  

The views were beautful.  A landscape of green mountains speckled with the life of the city, Cotopaxi
in the background with an overlay of clouds thats seemed to be protecting the life underneath.  Once again worth it.  

Going down was heaps easier, though at times it seemed like we werent moving at all so getting back down on the ground was a nice feeling.

Well, today we are off to the equator, how cool is that.  I am super stoked.

I love Ecuador.

                                                                                                     - My Beautiful Life -